Friday, August 2, 2013

MONEY 35 - BANK CHECKING ACCOUNTS


THIS IS MY 35TH POST ON UNDERSTANDING MONEY TOOLS

Recently, a friend said that many younger people know so little about banking that they don’t even understand how to get a checking account, what the numbers are all about and how to fill a check out properly. So, upon this comment I thought I would walk people through the fundamentals of a checking account.  Here goes…..

The first thing we need to do is select a bank that you want to work with, and they want your business.  I would choose one with a location not far from your home or work.  As mentioned prior to in other blogs, with the government favoring the large banks in the 2007-2008 banking debacle, many of the good small banks were forced to close their doors.  The big banks, of which there are perhaps 6 or so now, all look about the same, have the same services and charge the same rates.  It’s too bad that “anti-trust laws” have gone to the wayside with the final spade-fulls of dirt going on top of the coffin in 2000-2001.

Take a look at what a bank gives you in service, and what the fees are.  Typically, today you want a bank that offers free checking.  See if there are any annual fees, hidden fees, minimum balances, etc.  Does this bank have a personal service representative so when you have questions, or need assistance someone will be there to assist you?

Now, you’ve selected a bank and want to set up a checking account. I recommend that you immediately ask for “overdraft protection”.  This is for the situation where you have insufficient funds in your checking account and returned checks today can run $35-50. for each returned check.  So, if you wrote 5 checks and they were returned it could cost you $175 to 250. in penalties.  Banks are making a ton of money on fees, and you must know where these fees come from so it doesn’t cost you money.

Once that is done.  They will ask for information from you, like rough income statement, your earnings, balance sheet, etc.  You will be asked if you want your checks to be duplicate, so there is a carbon copy.  Many pens today when you write a check don’t press down hard enough to show on the carbon copy, so I don’t spend the extra money.  You will be given a few free initial checks until your printed ones are mailed to you at an address you want them mailed to. There normally is a charge for your checks as well as when you reorder new checks; same goes for extra deposit slips. You can get free deposit and withdrawal slips at the bank, of course they do not have your name on them.

Next, you will be given a signature card so that your signature the way you want it is on file.  Your name will be on each check so normally to protect myself from fraud, (if your check book is stolen) is sign differently than how your name appears on the check. For instance, if my name were John S. Smith, on the signature card I might go with only J. Smith.  Most people who steal checks will sign exactly as the name appears on the front of the check.  Therefore, when you sign your checks you will sign exactly as you sign the banks copy of the signature card, and lesson your liability in case of fraud.

The next thing is the number you want to start with.  Don’t start with 1, but perhaps 950 or 1001, so that it appears that you have had a checking account for sometime.

Let’s walk through what is on a check. In the upper left hand corner you will have your name as desired.  I have my full name as it appears on my drivers license so there is a match for identification.  This is followed below the name with your address of street, city, state and zip code. Some people like to put their phone number under this.  I do not.  The less, the better, for privacy in my eyes.

If you move to the far right you will find the number of the check.  In your checkbook the numbers, of course, will be in ascending order. Under the check number is a place for the date.  If you write a date in that is in the future, the check can’t be cashed until that date.

Under this and starting on the left is “PAY TO THE ORDER OF”. On this line you need to put who the check is made out to; who you are paying. Following this there is a box with a $ sign on the left.  Here you write the numbers in for the amount of the check, including the cents.  Below this there is a line with the words DOLLARS on the right.  Here you need to actually write the amount of the check and it has to correspond exactly to what you placed in the $ box. I normally draw a brief line before writing so that no one can add to the left of this, or increase the value.  If the amount is very small, I put in as an example “Only” and then write the amount.  After the written words for dollars you add the cents, if any, in numbers. For example “Only two and 14/100, (which is $2.14.)

At the bottom left of your check you will have MEMO.  Place in this area what the check was written for so you have a record, which will also help at tax time if it is an IRS tax deductible expense.  Following MEMO  is a straight line, and this is for your signature. Again, sign as your signature  appears on the signature card, not as your name appears on the check.

Below this on the left side are a bunch of numbers. Starting form the left is the routing numbers for bank purposes as your check goes through the banking system.  It identifies the bank where the money is drawn from.  The next set of numbers is your account number for this checking account, and the last set of numbers is your check number that will correspond to the number at the upper right hand corner. 

In your check book the bank has given you is a record account so you can keep track of whom you wrote a check to, the date, transaction description, payment amount, deposit column for your deposits and lastly a balance column.

One more area to cover.  Let’s say you want to cash a check to receive hard money, and don’t want to use an ATM machine.  First of all, not everyone or every bank will cash your check.  When you do find a person, business or bank that will accept your check make the check payable to yourself, cash or the person/business willing to give you cash back.  If the check is made payable to yourself or cash you need to turn the check over and endorse it with your signature at the top where most checks today say, “ENDORSE HERE”. If it is at the bank where you have an account, the bank will want you to write your account number below your endorsement.

Assume someone gives you a check.  When you cash it or deposit it into a bank account you will need to turn the check over and sign your name where it says, “ENDORSE HERE”.  You must endorse the check exactly how your name appears on the front.  For instance if the check says made out to, John “Spikeman” Smith, you need to sign it the same way as it appears.  Once you sign a check it becomes legal tender and could be cashed by most anyone, although with all the fraud today it is harder to do so.  Wait until you are ready for the deposit or cashing it before you sign the endorsement.



The bank personnel will tell you how to go about “on line banking” to simplify transfers, auto payments, etc.

If you discard checks I recommend that you shred them or at least rip off all numbers at the bottom of your checks so that others don’t steal your information easily.

Anyway, I hope this helps someone out there.  Don’t forget the objective here is to put more money in the bank than you take out!

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